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Musella Dembech – bespoke at home

 While in Milan earlier in the year I had a chance to catch up with Gianfrancesco Musella-Dembech, whose family run a small bespoke operation in Milan.Mother, father and son all work in the same room,...

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Casual, summer, office attire

 Following a request on last week’s Finagon post – the cardigan we created with John Smedley – here are some details on the rest of the outfit, above.One reader drew attention to the shirt collar, a...

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Johnston’s of Elgin

 Johnston’s is one of Scotland’s best-known and oldest knitwear companies. Most of its production is for third parties – it is the preferred supplier to several of the biggest men’s luxury brands. But...

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What makes a quality shirt?

 Dear Simon, I believe that I’ve read every post you’ve written about shirts. Italian, Spanish, British, even the one on Charvet in How To Spend It. I’m always looking for the same thing but still...

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Clothes for a wedding

 The simplicity of classic wedding attire – in colour, in pattern, in tone – is a reflection of respect  for the importance of the event. Business attire, once-upon-a-time, was similarly restrained;...

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A newcomer to quality

  It’s been so long since I experienced bespoke clothing for the first time, or indeed most of the luxury, craft-based things I write about, that I find it interesting when friends do so for the first...

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The Stefano Bemer shoemaking school – 8 months on

 Stefano Bemer is remembered for his generosity more than anything else.“He had the biggest heart,” one shoemaker told me in Florence, back in July. “He was very inventive and a great shoemaker. But he...

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How an overcoat should fit (Cifonelli fitting)  

 A reader recently asked me how an overcoat should fit – around the armholes, in the shoulder width – and given that I already had a post planned on this fitting on a Cifonelli overcoat, I thought I...

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What we write about when we write about quality

Two of my regular columns appear this week – one for We Are the Market and the other for How to Spend It. In the first, available here, I look at the problem of assessing quality in menswear.Bespoke...

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Last few days of the Finagon

 A quick update on the Finagon cardigan we designed with John Smedley. (Made to be the perfect layer under tailoring – more details here).The offer of free shipping on any order will run out on...

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Spanish tailors in How to Spend It

 In the past year or so, having got to know a few of the Spanish tailors a lot better – and having had things made by them – I have become very fond of their attitude, their openness and approach to...

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Blog do Kadu on Savile Row

 A lovely if slightly bizarre experience on Saturday, when I showed two Brazilian mega-bloggers around Savile Row. We went through the bespoke process at Gieves & Hawkes, visited the workshops, and...

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Linen suit from Langa, Madrid

 Tobacco brown’s a nice colour, isn’t it? Definitely informal – due to its lightness and saturation – yet with a quiet sophistication. Colonial, particularly in linen, but without the baggage of cream...

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Linen suit from Langa: details

 Some close-up details here on the linen suit from Sastreria Langa that we featured earlier in the week. You can see a few of the tailoring idiosyncrasies, as well as the cloth and work itself in more...

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Brands that weren’t quite right

Every week, around a dozen small companies contact me about their product. Each one has a great idea. It may be glasses made to measure, luxury socks or mystery gift boxes, but each is convinced he has...

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How to work with travelling tailors: Reader question

  Dear Simon,My name is Lukas. I’ve been an avid permanent style reader for several years and absolutely love your articles. For about four years, I have been altering RTW blazers, trousers and suits....

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Gieves & Hawkes made to measure

 Earlier in the summer my brother-in-law had this suit made-to-measure with Gieves & Hawkes. Normally, I don’t offer opinions on things that have not been made for me, but since I was present at...

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The eternal style of the shawl-collar cardigan

 If you don’t own a shawl-collar cardigan, it’s the one sweater you should invest in this winter.No other knitwear is more versatile: its collar makes it the only style that works with T-shirts, shirts...

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Gaziano & Girling launches patina service

 Last week was the launch of the new patina service at Gaziano & Girling on Savile Row. For anyone not familiar with the English shoemaking industry, this is a big step – for the first time, a...

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Gaziano & Girling guests

 By request, some of the lovely lovely people at the Gaziano & Girling evening last week. Not that many ties around, but some stunning Chittleborough & Morgan tailoring.Above, Michael Browne in...

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