St Crispin’s sole
A picture post for Thursday afternoon. I love the shape that Phillip at St Crispin’s has got into the waist of this Dainite sole. Phillip has been taking orders at Drake’s for his St Crispin’s shoes...
View ArticleBespoke is the future
During a sunny, late lunch in Madrid last month, Norman Vilalta and I spent some time talking about his experiments with new materials, and ideas on working with high-technology companies like Nike....
View ArticleFerdinando Caraceni: jacket fitting
When I was in Milan two weeks ago I had a first and second fitting with Ferdinando Caraceni in a day. This isn’t something that all tailors are happy doing, but for some such as Caraceni – which has...
View ArticleGreen, shantung, club (tie)
Dark green is a subtle and versatile tie colour. You’re not surprised I think that, right? After all I sing the praises of green at every opportunity. But broad truths bear repeating. With an outfit...
View ArticlePierre with his Fender
Pierre Corthay takes around an hour every day to play guitar. Impressive dedication, given the pressures on a growing company. But then there’s something about shoemakers – as I’ve mentioned before –...
View ArticleOrazio Luciano: expanding Neapolitan tailoring
Orazio Luciano has an opportunity. It is expanding into the North American market at a time when Neapolitan tailoring is becoming increasingly popular, and other brands (most notably Kiton) are a...
View ArticleSavile Row, parties and branding
Last month there were three parties on Savile Row on the same night. Huntsman, Kilgour and Anderson & Sheppard all held events on the Monday of London Collections:Men, with very different...
View ArticleEdward Green and Begg pop-up sale
Every year Edward Green does some kind of last-minute sale. In fact, just two weeks ago a reader asked when and where the next one would be. Well, it starts today – at the Old Truman Brewery just off...
View ArticleThe bespoke pea coat – Part 3
The bespoke pea coat had many inspirations. Among its foremost influences were the personal creations of Davide (Taub, Gieves & Hawkes head cutter); the Gieves military and naval archive; and the...
View ArticleAntonio Pio Mele – bespoke shoemaker, Milan
Antonio Pio Mele is a young Milanese shoemaker with an interesting background. His family owned a shoemaking factory in the south of Italy, but rather than go into the family business when he grew up...
View ArticleThe Button Queen
Last week I discovered The Button Queen, on Marylebone Lane in London. It’s hard to believe I’ve never been in before; I don’t think I will ever select buttons for tailoring from anywhere else.The...
View ArticleStefano Bemer: final bespoke shoes
After two and a half years I finally received my first Stefano Bemer bespoke shoes last month. And what beauties they are. I was initially measured by Stefano, who also oversaw the creation of my...
View ArticleClassics that never get used: Reader question
Beautiful, but will you wear it? Dear Simon,I have been quite busy in the last seven years building a wardrobe that will seem modest by your standards, but is still quite substantial for me. And...
View ArticleBudd bespoke safari jacket
My latest column for How to Spent It is on a safari jacket made recently with Budd. An interesting project, there will be more about it on Permanent Style next month. In the meantime you can read...
View ArticleHappy holidays
Permanent Style is on holiday this week. We’ll be back on Monday with a fresh collaboration with John Smedley that, frankly, I’m pretty excited about. See you then
View ArticleThe perfect cardigan – Permanent Style x Smedley
Last year I began working with John Smedley on our next project – the perfect cardigan. The requirements were:It had to be thin enough to wear year-round (and under a jacket). It had to be slim enough...
View ArticleThe perfect cardigan: Updates and details
Following Monday’s post on the cardigan we have developed with John Smedley – the Finagon – here is an update and answers to questions.Almost three-quarters of orders so far have been for Racing Green,...
View ArticleSavile Row, parties and branding
Last month there were three parties on Savile Row on the same night. Huntsman, Kilgour and Anderson & Sheppard all held events on the Monday of London Collections:Men, with very different...
View ArticleThe staples of a good wardrobe
In response to requests in the recent post ‘Classics that never get used’ here are five essentials of a modern wardrobe. Obviously a man’s actual requirements will vary hugely by lifestyle and...
View ArticleBespoke safari jacket – part 1
This safari jacket, made by London shirtmakers Budd, was born out of a desire for a soft, unstructured layer I could wear over a shirt or T-shirt in the summer. Often such things are referred to as...
View Article