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Postcard from Paris
In Paris this week, seeing a few lovely people at Cifonelli, Camps de Luca, Caron and Mes Chaussettes. Again with the Cs.The Camps de Luca suit needs one more fitting, while the Cifonelli overcoat is...
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How to wear tan shoes – reader question
Dear Simon,As with your other readers who write, let me say how much I enjoy your posts, columns, etc. They are fun to read and informative. All your posts on shoes, and brown shoes in particular,...
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Luca Avitabile replaces Satriano Cinque
Customers of Luca Avitabile – the superb Neapolitan shirtmaker introduced on this site – will already be aware that he has split from Gabriella, his partner at operating company Satriano Cinque.As per...
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Anderson & Sheppard online store opens
As regular readers will know, the Anderson & Sheppard haberdashery launched by Anda Rowland and Audie Charles on Clifford Street is one of my favourite shops in London. Possibly the best single...
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Kiton’s Lasa – bespoke or made-to-measure?
The Lasa service from Kiton is being offered as part of the Made-to-Measure service at Harrod’s (the last event was this past weekend), but may actually be closer to bespoke. Indeed, the question...
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BBC interview
For those that are interested, I was recently asked to appear on BBC World for a piece on the growth of menswear. Part of the Business Edition, the interview was shown just after a vox pop of men in...
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Interview: Dean Gomilsek-Cole, Turnbull & Asser
Over the past few months, Turnbull & Asser has gone through an interesting experiment, attempting to extend its signature bright colours and clashing patterns from tailoring to casual wear.While...
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William Abraham socks in HTSI
My latest column for How to Spend It is on the innovative Bram Frankel, creator of sock brand William Abraham. I continue to be impressed by Bram ever since I first helped launch the brand back in...
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Tim Little and Grenson, explained
A few months ago, I got to know Tim Little – the owner of the Grenson factory in Northampton and of his own eponymous shoe brand (pictured above, on the left). Not only has Tim been a modernising...
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The bespoke shoemakers I have known
A reader recently asked for my advice on bespoke shoemakers, making me realise I hadn’t done an equivalent to ‘The tailors I have known’ for shoes. This is the first part of the response to his...
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Bespoke tailoring: cost, margin and value
Tailors have lower margins than other retailers. Customers of bespoke accept that, and appreciate it. But how much lower are they? In order to answer that question as much as I could, I got four...
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My adelaides patinated
Continuing the shoe theme of recent posts, above are my Gaziano & Girling bespoke adelaides after repatination from Thomas at the Savile Row store. (Adelaide refers to the U-shaped section around...
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The Row’s new clothing – 1. Hardy Amies
Over the next few months there is going to be a plethora of ready-to-wear shops opening that are in some way inspired by tailoring. Hardy Amies has just opened; then there’s E Tautz; Kilgour will have...
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The Invention of the English Gentleman
Earlier this year I helped write the Gieves & Hawkes book, One Savile Row: The Invention of the English Gentleman, contributing the bespoke chapter. It came out a couple of weeks ago, and I highly...
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Denim and tailoring
The crossover between denim and tailoring is an interesting one. The appeal is perfectly understandable: like tight fits, short jackets or bracelets, it reflects a desire to undermine the conservative...
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Postcard from Scotland
Up in Scotland for the next few days, visiting Begg, Mackintosh and Robert Noble. Driving rain for the drive yesterday, but a beautifully cold and sunny morning today. My favourite weather. Vintage...
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Postcard from Mackintosh – drawing on the tables
Often the most charming aspect of a factory is the way its industrial environment has been altered by the employees. Usually that amounts to no more than photos of children on desks, or the scores of...
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Postcard from Begg – teasels and cream cashmere
One of the interesting tensions in a factory visit is the way machinery is portrayed. Some manufacturers will boast of their old, traditional methods, when in fact the same thing could be done,...
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Final Kiton Lasa jacket
Decent made to measure. That’s how I would describe this final jacket from Kiton – made for me as part of the Harrod’s MTM events and described in previous posts on the commissioning and fitting. The...
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Smedley’s slim-fit knitwear reviewed
Readers will not be surprised that I consider the John Smedley fine-gauge knitwear the best available for wear with tailoring. Cashmere is often too delicate at this level of thinness, and fine merino...
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