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Silk piece in the Financial Times
The Weekend edition of the Financial Times carried a piece by me on Saturday. It suffered a little in the editing (I wouldn't refer to Richard James as a Savile Row tailor), but it is interesting how...
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Shoulder pads at Gieves, old silk books and worsted weaving
One of Italy's oldest books on silk work In the past two weeks on The Rake we've had pieces looking at the way Davide Taube and his fellow cutters are ripping down their shoulder pads at Gieves, and a...
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The Permanent Style slippers have arrived
I've just received this image of the Permanent Style travel slippers from Jose at La Portegna. They look just the right PS purple and buttery soft.Those 50 people lucky enough to buy one of these...
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Ralph Auriemma takes on Paul Stuart
One of the greatest pleasures of going to New York is visiting Paul Stuart. It might be the only great men’s store left in the world. It is not a chain (five stores doesn’t count); it only sells its...
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Chittleborough & Morgan suit: Part one (a)
As a quick teaser during our US-themed week, above is my suit from Chittleborough & Morgan at the basted stage. The broad, peaked lapels and strong shoulders are immediately obvious, but during the...
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Lee Miller, bespoke bootmaker, Austin
Talking to Lee Miller reminds me what I love about craftsmen. He has that mix of sincerity, humility and zeal that you only seem to find in people who must mix the aesthetic and the functional on a...
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Huntsman rehires cutter Gordon Alsleben
Once more our series of American posts is interrupted by some news.Huntsman has hired a new senior cutter, Gordon Alsleben. Or rather have re-hired him, as he was an under cutter at the house in 1980...
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Craftsmen, kids, writers and readers
This industry and this blog would be far less enjoyable without the delightful people it seems to attract. One of the nice things about touring the US recently was meeting them – whether craftsmen,...
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How bespoke cowboy boots are made: Lee Miller
I wrote last week about Lee Miller, one of the best bespoke cowboy-boot makers in the US. Other than the man himself, my prime interest in talking to Lee was the similarities with bespoke dress shoes....
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Chris Despos: American bespoke tailoring, via Italy
When I visited US tailor Chris Despos last month I was slightly surprised to find that his house cut was so Italian in style. I think in London we often forget the influence of the Italians on US...
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The 1000th post
This is the 1000th post on Permanent Style. In the past five-and-a-half years I have written about having things made at 20 different bespoke tailors, 6 bespoke shirtmakers and 2 bespoke shoemakers....
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How to pick buttons for a suit
Simon, I am a loyal fan in San Francisco. Your style, commentary and photos are extremely helpful in navigating the bespoke world, and more importantly, developing my style.Question: my tailor is...
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Monocle Summer Fayre and Trunk Labs
At the Monocle Summer Fayre this weekend. Monocle’s quirky and intelligent selection of partners and products was on display, as well as some rather fetching goats. It was also the opening day of Trunk...
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Savile Row Bespoke at London Collections: Men
Anda and Savile Row Bespoke outdid themselves yesterday, at the second The English Gentleman event. Held in the pavilion of Lord’s, there were dozens of suits on display from 19 different Savile Row...
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Sneak peek: Permanent Style x John Smedley
Next Wednesday, June 26th, we will be launching a collaboration with John Smedley: a unique design that I believe is the perfect sartorial sweater.One or two people commented to me that the last...
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Navy seersucker suit, Chittleborough & Morgan
By popular request, here's a picture of Michael Browne of Chittleborough & Morgan in his navy seersucker suit at the Savile Row event on Monday. Pretty special, isn't it?Look out for the first post...
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Permanent Style: big in Peru
An eagle-eyed reader sent me this newspaper clipping yesterday. It appears that versions of the profile that How To Spend It in Spain did on me in January are being carried by other Spanish-language...
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Having a suit dry cleaned: Jeeves of Belgravia
Suits should not be dry-cleaned very often. For some I know on and around Savile Row, that means once every six months. For others, it means never. The exact amount, of course, depends also on how...
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How to buy a good tie
My latest column on How to Spend It is now live. In the latest in this practical, quality-spotting series, I explain how to buy a quality tie. The slip stitch is key, but then nearly all ties have a...
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Permanent Style x John Smedley: The perfect polo
For anyone who likes bespoke or made-to-measure clothing, knitwear can be frustrating – particularly for wearing with that bespoke clothing, where you want the fit and finish to be as precise as the...
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