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How to respond to criticism
Several weeks ago, I wrote a review on Permanent Style of an artisan. The review contained good and bad points, with the latter focusing largely on quality of work. I had mentioned these points when I...
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AW Bauer & Co – bespoke tailor, Stockholm
I don’t usually write about tailors unless I am trying them as a customer – it just feels like there’s a big part of the content missing. But one exception I’m happy to make is for young tailors, who...
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A lapis-blue linen jacket for summer
Summer clothing, particularly from Italian brands, often includes a lot of light, bright colours. These can be difficult to wear, particularly in northern European countries where the sun might not be...
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Why I don’t wear braces
Braces (or suspenders) are great. The tension in hanging from the shoulders maintains a smooth, elegant front to trousers. The high-waisted style gives a man longer legs and stops any shirt puffing...
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A very modern cut: Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corcos, Florence
One young tailor I’ve been meaning to cover for a while is Kotaro Miyahira of Sartoria Corcos, in Florence. Kotaro is not taking on new clients at the moment, having just had his first child and not...
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Chinos, loafers and a sports jacket (or sweater)
Those on the Drake’s mailing list may have seen this outfit on Friday, accompanying an article on their new trouser range. To fill in the details: the olive Drake’s chinos were worn with a white...
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The tailors I have known
This post was originally written in 2012, following a request from a reader. It was a breakdown of all the tailors I have tried, split into different countries. I have endeavoured to update it now,...
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Five double-breasted styles compared
Last month we talked about how small changes in the proportions of a double-breasted jacket can have a radical effect on its style - and therefore on the people or situations it suits. This week I've...
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Ayres Goncalo: bespoke tailor, Porto
The next young tailor I wanted to highlight on Permanent Style is Ayres Goncalo, a Portuguese who worked at Gieves & Hawkes in London for four years, before returning to Porto to set up his own...
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Chapal made-to-measure leather jacket, Paris
Fans of vintage clothing should love Chapal. They’re using the same leathers, the same linings, the same hardware they supplied to the French and US airforces 100 years ago. When I wrote about fellow...
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Summer dressing in Robb Report; tailors and SMN in How to Spend It
In recent weeks there have been several pieces in magazines such as Robb Report UK and the Financial Times's luxury supplement, How To Spend It. Regular readers will be aware that I write a monthly...
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Permanent Style trunk show: Heurtault, Amoruso, Cerrato, Lavabre Cadet
I am very proud to say that we have a Permanent Style trunk show organised for October 5th, co-hosted with Gaziano & Girling at their Savile Row store. This has been a good while in the making,...
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The corduroy suit
I have a friend who wears what he calls ‘knockabout’ suits. How exactly he knocks about in them I don’t know, but the meaning is clear: these are casual suits, that don’t belong in a formal...
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D’Avino in London
The exquisite shirtmaker D'Avino (that's the brand name, the man being Fiorenzo Auricchio) is here in London for a rare visit in two weeks. D'Avino makes to the highest level you will see, with...
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How to talk to a tailor
I get nervous talking to tailors. Not to stumble or stutter, but there will always be a point where I want to bring something up, and hesitate. Being in tailor's is intimidating, whether on Savile Row...
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Introducing: The trunk show calendar
Today we launch something rather different on Permanent Style: a live Trunk Show Calendar. The calendar is a central, coordinated listing of bespoke menswear trunk shows around the world. It lists,...
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Gaziano & Girling celebrate 10 years
Launching a brand is not hard. Someone does it in our area every week, and is nice enough to email to let me know. However, launching a brand, making it a success as bespoke, then launching...
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Serge Amoruso leather goods, Paris
Of the four makers featuring in our Permanent Style trunk show in a few weeks, the one least likely to be familiar to readers is Serge Amoruso. So, some background. Serge is an award-winning leather...
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Cerrato bespoke trousers, Naples
Over the past few weeks I've been talking to Neapolitan trouser makers Marco and Massimo Cerrato, and commissioning the pair in cotton drill pictured here. I'm pleased to say that it looks like we...
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Gaziano & Girling bespoke loafers (and the beauty of refinement)
The older I get, the more I wear well-made clothes, and (most importantly) the more I think about clothes, the simpler I seem to dress. I am rarely without my navy grenadine tie. I now have Crispaire...
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